When actress Julia Roberts portrayed fictional restaurant critic Julianne Potter in the 1997 film, “My Best Friend’s Wedding,” every breath and bite she took led the restaurant staff to tremble.The unmitigated power and unbridled influence of one set of taste buds—the ability of those human sensors to strike terror into the hearts of restaurateurs—remains pretty much the stuff of cinematic fiction. The days of the all-powerful restaurant critic, who can make or break an operation with a ...

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