Bread, once thought of by some as a necessary but uninspired staple, is taking on new importance in this competitive landscape. 
 Much as restaurateurs’ perception of coffee has shifted from commodity to point of distinction, great bread is now seen as a way to impress customers.
 “If you don’t make a good first impression, you’re never going to get customers back in the restaurant,” said Phil Deffina, executive chef of Highpoint Bistro & Bar in New York. ...

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