Whether they're moving in fast company with black truffles and Kobe beef or smashed with homier things like corn and bacon bits, potatoes are showing greater flair and personality these days. Casual-dining operators are taking cues from both the quick-service and upscale segments, serving up French fries with zesty sauces and dips as signature appetizers, folding distinctive mix-ins into mashed potatoes and even sizzling the tasty tuber in authentic Chinese stir-fries. In some hands, ...

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