Following the hamburger’s recent elevation in status, chefs now are giving inexpensive sausage, from bratwurst to bologna, the royal treatment.On the streets of Los Angeles a vendor sells local, organic, grass-feed beef hot dogs, a celebrity chef makes his own bologna in a brand new Cleveland restaurant, and a fine-dining French chef in Manhattan offers 14 house-prepared sausages from around the world, including a $9 classic hot dog. “People order four of them,” says Daniel Boulud ...

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