When it comes to cooking, chef David Burke says he’s a “showoff.” But in Burke’s dining rooms his innovative dishes steal the show.The chef’s “angry lobster” with hot pepper sauce and claws facing up toward diners, for example, evokes a punk’s dramatic spiky hair. Burke displays pieces of shell-on lobster on a metal flower arranger that traditionally holds stems in place.Besides asking diners to sit up and take notice of his food, Burke intends to make guests smile with humorous dishes. So ...

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