Executive chef Laurent Gras wraps filleted loin of shimaaji, a type of horse mackerel, in cheesecloth and covers the cheesecloth with a paste of red miso and lime zest. He lets that cure for six hours. Then he removes the cheesecloth and cuts the fish into quarter-inch slices. He seasons it with crumbled freeze-dried soy sauce, breakfast radishes, thin slices of daikon, and olive oil and soy dressing with lime zest.

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