Not many restaurateurs are capable of transforming the meaning of an everyday Latin phrase, but that’s what Thomas Keller did. 
 After it was announced that the chef-owner of The French Laundry was going to open one of the flagship restaurants in New York’s Time Warner Center, he was repeatedly asked if it was going to be another branch of his Napa Valley restaurant.
 He said, “It’s not going to be The French Laundry per se,” and realized that the Latin term ...

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