While no streetcar runs down Chartres Street, chef Scott Boswell’s Stella! in the lower east corner of New Orleans’ French Quarter has evolved since 2001 into a place that incites culinary desire.
 Nestled down a small walkway next to the historic Provincial Hotel, Stella! has become part laboratory and part cathedral to modern cooking in the city known for its steeped-in-history Cajun and Creole cuisines.
 “Scott Boswell’s campaign to make Stella! a restaurant that ...

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