Shareable, economical family-style platters may fit well in these penny-pinching times, but they also have more lighthearted and decadent appeal, as they call to mind feelings of generosity and conviviality. From chains to high-end white-tablecloth operations, they are showing up more and more at every course. A new appetizer at Ten Penh, a pan-Asian operation in Washington, D.C., is a throwback, the Hawaiian-style pupu platter served for the table on a wooden lazy Susan, the way ...

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