Julia Child, the grande dame of American gastronomy, often would vent her frustration at those individuals who demonized ingredients like butter, cream and salt, claiming that they led to health problems.“Everybody is overreacting,” Child told a New York Times reporter back in 1989. “If fear of food continues, it will be the death of gastronomy in the United States.”A year later, she was still fighting the same battle.“We must be able to make some sense out of the health issues so that ...

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