Afew years ago, many young chefs were into the gadgetry of molecular gastronomy. Next charcuterie was hot. Then they became infatuated with the simplicity of seasonal produce. “I’m seeing a bunch of chefs who are interested in cooking from the garden,” says Jeremy Fox, executive chef of Ubuntu in Napa, Calif. “We have a bunch of nonvegetarian cooks who are thinking the same ways about vegetables as they would about meat.” Ubuntu’s a vegetarian restaurant, so Fox likely gets ...

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