Chefs seem particularly enamored of the idea of cooking every bit of a pig. It appeals to the conservationist in them, is easier to conceive of than cooking an entire cow, and a lot more impressive than cooking a whole chicken. The last time NRN checked in with Sean Brock — the executive chef of McCrady’s and Husk in Charleston, S.C. — he had just bought three acorn-fed Berkshires and had started curing them. “It’s crazy. You spend $7,000 on these pigs and you ...

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