Korean food in the United States has long languished in obscurity while the cuisine of its neighbors, China and Japan, have been active players in the development of the modern American pantry. The reason Korean-Americans often cite for the mainstream's rejection of their cuisine is the prominence of spicy, garlicky pickled vegetables known as kimchi — but it’s that very ingredient that chefs are now embracing across the country. Kimchi is usually part of the panchan, or ...

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