Pity the poor egg. An early casualty of overzealous and misguided food police, the product languished for years. The good news is that the culinary clouds have parted, and eggs have reasserted their necessity on menus. Protein-rich, versatile and economical, the egg is this year’s “it” ingredient, and it’s making up for lost time by appearing in innovative and unexpected menu applications that stretch far beyond breakfast.
 Sandwiches and salads. Adding an egg to ...

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