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On the Menu: Dale Miller

On the Menu: Dale Miller

Since the 1980s Dale Miller has been recognized as one of the brightest culinary lights of the Albany, N.Y., dining scene. He made his mark at 26 years old with the award-winning Stone’s End in Glenmont, N.Y., and afterward spent 11 years as executive chef at downtown Albany’s legendary Jack’s Oyster House, helping to burnish the 96-year-old restaurant’s reputation.

After a brief stop at The Inn at Erlowest in Lake George, N.Y., Miller has returned to downtown Albany with his eponymous restaurant, Dale Miller. Located in the newly refurbished Omni Plaza across the street from the Times Union Center, which hosts concerts and sporting events, the restaurant is scheduled to open its doors this month.

The operation consists of several components, including a main dining area, an outdoor terrace, a grab-and-go kiosk in the Omni Plaza lobby and private-party space on the building’s 14th-floor penthouse level. The 70-plus-seat restaurant and bar encompass 3,800 square feet of space, while the penthouse floor, which offers views of the Hudson River and the Albany skyscape, can accommodate multiple parties in its 10,000-square-foot area.

The grab-and-go kiosk is designed to cater to office workers in the Omni Plaza, street traffic and people attending events at the Times Union Center. Selections include soups, sandwiches, salads, pastries, coffees and beverages. Packaged hot meals also are available. Miller anticipates the per-person tab will be $5 to $6 for the to-go menu.

However, the centerpiece of the operation will be the restaurant itself, which seats 56 in the main dining room, 12 at a communal table, and 50 on an outside terrace as the weather permits. While Miller has a long-established reputation as running high-end kitchens, he says the restaurant has been designed to offer “a luxury experience at affordable prices.” The per-person check average is expected to run about $40 for a traditional three-course meal, not including beverage, tax and tip.

Guests will not only have the ability to select a wide variety of items from the restaurant’s ample menu but also to control portion sizes. The menu begins with 10 appetizers—called “first impressions,” in keeping with the restaurant’s fine-arts motif. A second grouping features 10 small plates—called “mosaics”—priced from $4 to $7 each. Guests can choose any three dishes for $15.

AT A GLANCE

Cuisine: contemporary American with global influencesLocation: 30 S. Pearl St., Albany, N.Y.Opening: scheduled to open May 1, 2009Seats: 56 in the main dining room, plus 12 at communal table and 50 outdoorsPer-person dinner check average: $40Chef’s signature items: shrimp, prosciutto and melon; miso-glazed Pacific salmon; chermoula-crusted rack of lamb; grilled pork porterhouseAnnualized sales: $2.2 millionMenu maker: Dale MillerOwners: Dale Miller and Jim LinnanWebsite:www.dalemillerrestaurant.com

Main dishes—called “montage”—can be ordered as full portions or half portions, enabling guests to slice and dice even further. For example, Miller says, miso-glazed salmon comes either in a full 8-ounce portion for $24 or a 4-ounce half portion for $15. But while the protein may be halved, each plate contains full vegetable and starch portions. Certain main dishes like chicken or trout cannot be split, he adds.

“We’re trying to give guests the opportunity to try more than one thing,” he says.

In addition, Miller also features an eight-course tasting menu for $89 per person. The entire table must order the fixed-price menu, however.

Miller’s menu represents the eclectic style of cooking he has been pursuing for many years. Dishes reflect influences from North Africa, the Mediterranean, France, Italy, the Pacific Rim, Latin America and the United States. His chermoula-crusted rack of lamb, for example, reflects a North African influence in the use of the Tunisian condiment chermoula, which contains puréed jalapeño, garlic, lemon, olive oil and cumin. The lamb is accompanied by a Moroccan tomato jam that includes cinnamon, cloves, brown sugar, vinegar and onions, as well as fregola sarda, a couscous-like toasted pasta.

first impressionsmosaics (small plates)montage (main plates)
Pacific Rim “Fish and Chips” Crispy Spicy Salmon Cake, Lotus Chips Asian Guacamole, Malted Sake Vinegar 10
Shrimp, Prosciutto and Melon Pan Seared Prosciutto Wrapped Shrimp Melon Sorbet, Lemon Basil Pesto 12
Crispy Calamari Fantasia Dusted with Chickpea Flour, Harissa Gastrique, Lemon Pepper Yogurt 9
Lobster Bisque, Latin Style Essence of Ginger, Lime, Coconut and Jalapeño 10
Carpaccio of Beef Balsamic Truffle Oil, Crispy Capers Reggiano Shards, Baby Arugula 11
Maura’s Salad Littlefield Organic Greens, Moroccan Seared Quail, Spicy Almonds 14
Vegetable Series One Pressed Grilled Vegetable Tapestry, Smoked Mozzarella, Tapenade Vinaigrette 5
Vegetable Series Two Asian Vegetable Rolls, Ponzu Sauce Tempura Haricot Vert 5
Vegetables Series Three Asparagus Française White Truffle Aïoli 5
Pan Seared Squid Chiffonade Gingered Herb Pistou, Tobiko Sprinkle 6
Duck Confit Firecrackers Spicy Hoisin Ginger Sauce, Pea Shoot Salad 6
Housemade Charcuterie, Fritz Style Duck Prosciutto, Venison Salami Fennel Orange Sauce, Mustard Pickles 7
Miso Glazed Pacific Salmon French Pressed Lemon Grass Broth Tofu and Haricot Vert Tempura 24/15
Crispy Skin Golden Trout Vanilla Parsnip Sauce, Grilled Peach Spinach Pappardelle 19
“Triple Sear” Sliced Strip Steak Rock Salt, Aged Sake, Shoyu Sauce Scallion Pancake 30/18
Char Roasted Filet of Beef Horseradish Mustard Crust, Sumac Onions Golden Potato Purée 30/18
Chermoula Crusted Rack of Lamb Tomato Jam, Natural Jus 30/18
Grilled Pork Porterhouse Apple-Pepper Jelly Glaze Olive Oil Rosemary Roasted Potato 24
Espresso Seared Breast of Duck Lavender Honey Glace Farro Pilaf 30/18

Miller’s Latin-style lobster bisque is flavored with ginger, lime, coconut and jalapeño and thickened with cooked rice that has been passed through a chinois.

“I really like to bring a global influence to the menu,” he says.

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