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Multiconcept operator Chow Fun welcomes challenges of 2008

Multiconcept operator Chow Fun welcomes challenges of 2008

PROVIDENCE R.I. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

In the past 10 years, he has brought to this city his innovative takes on steak and sushi, seafood, wine bars, and the cuisines of New Mexico and the Pacific Rim through XO Steak House, 10 Prime Steak & Sushi, Big Fish and Citron Wine Bar & Bistro. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

This month, the chef-restaurateur opened his fifth restaurant, Chinese Laundry, an upscale Asian noodle bar, and plans are on tap for the unveiling of an irreverent barbecue joint to be called Rick’s Roadhouse later this year. He estimates that Chow Fun Food Group’s annual sales will reach about $9 million in 2008. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

“I have two or three more [concepts] inside me,” he said. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

Boston also looms on the horizon, Elkhay said. He plans to shop for sites there this fall. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

His most recent foray, Chinese Laundry, has become, in his words, “the biggest aggravation ever in the history of restaurant openings,” but exemplifies his attention to detail. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

Chinese Laundry, which has been in the works for four years, is located in a small building that actually had been a Chinese laundry since 1910. Elkhay’s goal was to maintain the exterior and thoroughly revamp the interior. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

“Because we have glass floors for viewing the private dining room, we had to steel frame the floor as well as the “O” Lounge, since its entire wall is glass that is fire-rated,” he said. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

The private dining room, Jewel Bako, which means “jewel box,” has its own entrance for VIPs and is below grade, so an intricate pump system was needed to ensure that no moisture could get into the space. Elkhay also needed a backup generator to be sure that in a power outage, the room would still stay dry. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

“That’s also where we store our wine,” he said. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

The project became more complex with custom-made yellow onyx tile floors, faux bamboo walls, hand-cut tiles in the main bar and other personal touches. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

A 6-foot-by-10-foot kitchen “had to be customized as well,” he said. Meanwhile, between the restaurant’s conception and actual opening, the menu changed. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

Elkhay originally planned a $40 average check. But after a new fire code limited the main dining area to only 14 seats, he decided to “make it an incredible dining experience,” he said. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

“We fly in oh-toro tuna that costs us $64 per pound before trimming, Kobe beef from Japan at $120 a pound, prime tenderloin, Osetra caviar, foie gras, etc.,” Elkhay said. “We’re trying to do something different.” —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

CHAIN FACTS

NAME: Chow Fun Food GroupHEADQUARTERS: Providence, R.I.MARKET SEGMENT: multiconcept dinnerhousesCONCEPTS: XO Steak House, 10 Prime Steak & Sushi, Big Fish, Citron Wine Bar & Bistro and Chinese LaundryMENUS:steak, sushi, seafood, barbeque, AsianTOTAL NO. OF UNITS: 5AVERAGE UNIT VOLUME: Ranges from $1 million to more than $3 millionAVERAGE CHECK: Ranges from $20 to $110ANNUAL SALES: About $9 millionLEADERSHIP: John Elkhay, Rick and Cheryl Bready, Nick Rabar, Teddy Newcomer, Tracy RushYEAR FOUNDED: 1997 —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

Next, Elkhay will make over his Big Fish fresh seafood, pasta and pizza concept into Rick’s Roadhouse, which he describes as a “unique steakhouse experience” and barbeque restaurant with “slow-cooked down-home food and State Fair desserts baked on-premise daily.” —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

The 6,500-square-foot restaurant is scheduled to debut this summer with an average check of $18 to $22. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

“[It] will be very fun,” said Elkhay, who plans to have a barbeque team that will compete nationally. Two barbeque aficionados, Andy Husbands and Ed Doyle, both Boston chefs, consulted on the project. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

Elkhay was unable to avoid having the two openings within a few months of one another. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

“Somehow, I knew they’d probably open together,” he said. “Sometimes it’s a blessing, but sometimes it’s not. The good news is, I have the management teams in place for both.” —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

Elkhay began his restaurant career during his early teens and earned a degree at Johnson & Wales University in Providence. He honed his skills at the Waldorf-Astoria in New York, the Jared Coffin House in Nantucket, Mass., and many West Coast restaurants, where he was lured by regional cuisine and local, fresh products. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

After returning east, he joined Guy Abelson at Café in the Barn in Seekonk, Mass., and later at InProv, a tapas bar concept in downtown Providence that Elkhay called “ahead of its time.” —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

In 1997, he opened his first solo restaurant, XO Steak House, putting his own touch on the classic steakhouse with items such as a bento box filled with tempura mushroom fries. At the same time, he formed Chow Fun Food Group. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

Next came 10 Prime Steak & Sushi, which reflected his contention that steak is “comfort food” and sushi is “a way of life.” —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

Big Fish followed, and then Citron, with its West Coast vibe and a menu featuring Pacific Rim, New Mexican and California influences and all-natural, sustainable and organic fare. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

Elkhay, who fibbed about his age at 14 to get his first restaurant job as a dishwasher, says cooking is in his blood. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

“I love to cook,” he said. “I get my thrills out of throwing a lot of dinner parties. I need and love the hospitality business, and love cooking, eating and drinking wine. The restaurant business is very much like giving a dinner party. You find a place for your guests to park easily, take their coats, usher them in, seat them, serve them drinks, food, wine, dessert, coffee, and later, walk them to their cars. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

“It’s so simple. You learn your customers, use their names, and treat them as if they were guests in your home. It’s not about sales. It’s about hospitality.” —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

The restaurant business also provides Elkhay a way to give back. Over the past seven years, he has raised $250,000 with his Chefs for Cystic Fibrosis fundraiser dinners in honor of his late son, Ross. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

Elkhay says he is ready for a challenging year. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

“Last year, the first two quarters were spectacular,” he said. “This year, between the economy and the weather, they were off. I could see it and smell it on the horizon. The worst thing you can do is cut quality. I try to do everything even better. When customers come back, you have a better chance of increasing business. I’m in this for a lifetime of profit. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

“Cutting back hurts you, so we do the complete opposite–buy new china, replace the carpets. A down economy makes you more motivated to give value.” —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

Despite the economy, Elkhay’s goal for 2008 is to improve sales. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

“I expect it to be a little bit softer,” he said. “But if the ‘R-word’ happens, it’s not the worst thing. I expect the fourth quarter to be better. We’ve had a perfect storm with oil prices and the mortgage situation, not to mention the war. —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

“People are jittery, melancholy and afraid of celebrating. It’s not a time of ‘feel good.’ When people go out, they want to be entertained. I think we’ll do well and people will still go out. They don’t want to cook all the time at home.” —John Elkhay, whose title is “maestro” of the Chow Fun Food Group, draws on his artistic inspiration and sense of fun to orchestrate the measured growth of his multiconcept restaurant company.

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