When times get tough, consumers choose the familiar, the pleasing and, of course, the affordable. That helps explain the prominence of beer-friendly concepts and promotions in restaurants today. More than a few operators, including some known for tony upscale cuisine and impressive wine lists, are building business with plainspoken but popular fare like great burgers, artisanal sausages and well-chosen craft brews. But it’s really not a surprise, considering the growing regard for ...

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