Asked by a friend what I thought of a new TV spot for Panda Express, I responded definitively, “I don’t know.” And I had seen the spot at least five times when I made that reply. You’d think a critic would have a more measured response after watching a commercial that often. In the interest of full disclosure, however, I am forced to admit that my reply was a bit disingenuous. When I said, “I don’t know,” what I really should have said was, ...

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