When homely sheepshead and paddlefish appear on the list of entries at a culinary contest, it may seem as if contestants think judges will give extra credit for ugly fish.But for the chefs presenting less attractive or lesser-used species at the sixth annual Great American Seafood Cook-off held recently in New Orleans, flavor is all that matters. The competition, which is designed to encourage use of local and sustainable varieties, mandated that chefs use fish harvested from their state’s ...

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