New York chef Seamus Mullen knows a farmer in Vermont who slaughters a hog on Monday, hangs it for all of Tuesday and then delivers it to Boqueria, Mullen’s Spanish tapas restaurant in Manhattan, on Wednesday. “We pretty much move from one end to the other,” Mullen says of the pig, serving the tail and ears—confit in pig fat—as part of a salad or tapas on Wednesday night and then using the rest of the animal throughout the course of the week.“I don’t use commodity pork, so if I were just to ...

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