I first met George Lang a year or so after I had graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 1980 and moved down to New York. For anyone coming out of the CIA at the time and looking to make their way in the New York culinary scene — as a chef or writer or whatever — Lang was recognized as being part of an elite group of gastronomic high priests who presided over the city’s haute dining establishment. The group included Paul Kovi and Tom Margittai of The Four ...

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