For this $9 appetizer, chef Benjamin Lambert draws inspiration from the congee, or rice porridge, that he ate when he lived in New York City. He starts with Carolina Gold rice and overcooks it so the grains start to fall apart a little — an idea he got from an unpublished book of Gray Kunz’s recipes from the 1990s, when the legendary chef ran the New York restaurant Lespinasse. Lambert purées about a quarter of the rice and then adds it back to the rest. Then he ...

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