It’s probably just the culinary world going: ‘What haven’t we done yet?’” That’s how Grant Achatz, the edgy, award-winning chef of Alinea restaurant in Chicago, sums up the recent popularity of rillettes and other house-made charcuterie. “It’s just like anything else,” he says. “You go through trends with ethnic food: Japanese is hot, then Mexican, then Thai.”Now the age-old techniques of French charcuterie are getting their turn. As a result, tubs of shredded pork and lard ...

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