Spanish trumps French these days for many young chefs looking to expand their culinary knowledge. “No one goes to France to eat now,” says Andy Nusser, executive chef and partner at Casa Mono and adjoining Bar Jamon in New York. “Everyone goes to Spain. Spanish food is in the forefront.” “We’re at an important moment,” says Ferran Adrià, chef-owner of elBulli in Roses, Spain, and a leader of the global molecular gastronomy movement. ...

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