When is a fish not a fish? When, sans fins, gills and bones, it’s safely hidden in a six-ounce tin. For many years that’s how Americans consumed tuna, which, minus the scary fishy parts, was No. 1 in total U.S. seafood consumption by a wide margin. Since the beginning of this decade, however, canned tuna’s dominance has been eclipsed by the more glamorous shrimp. Nonetheless, it remains a consumer favorite, and the surging popularity of ahi in all its untinned glory has given the fish a ...

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