When Monk’s Café in Philadelphia opened in 1997 as one of America’s pioneering Belgian restaurants, it was pretty much a given that the beer list would be heavy on brews from “Het Bierland,” or “The Beercountry,” as Belgium is sometimes known. And sure enough, Monk’s Café today boasts one of the most meticulously selected menus of Belgian beer seen on the East Coast.
 But what of restaurants specializing in the cuisines of countries not ...

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