Crafting a wine list is fraught with decisions: Should you gather only the most popular brands and varietals? Opt for an award-seeking compilation? Perhaps assemble a list based on a sommelier’s quirky preferences?
 There are countless ways go about it, but for two concepts, Donatella in New York and Grüner in Portland, Ore., the answer was the same: Align the wine closely with the cuisine — even if it means taking guests out of their comfort zone. 
 It’s not always ...

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