Like a seasoned Hollywood character actress, the humble cranberry is capable of performing in many types of roles. Even if not cast as the leading lady, the fruit can receive raves as a tart foil to overly sweet or rich ingredients.And every now and then, it even steals the show. “It’s such an easy fruit to work with,” says Tami Lax, owner of Harvest Restaurant in downtown Madison, Wis. “The reason I like it so much is you can go both sweet or savory with it. Its characteristics ...

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