We are always pleased when business takes us to Portland, Ore.—not just because that business usually involves visiting wineries that produce Oregon’s impressive Pinot Noirs, but also because we consider Portland to have one of the most exciting restaurant scenes in the United States.
A fairly new addition to the Portland restaurant scene is Ten 01, a flashy, modern establishment in the Pearl District that opened its doors a little more than a year ago. Ten 01—named for its address, 1001 N.W. Couch St.—has earned positive reviews particularly for its wine program. Local Portland wine authority and author Heidi Yorkshire wrote: “The restaurant’s high spot is its wine list. With about 500 separate labels, sommelier Erica Landon has put together one of the most impressive selections in town.”
Indeed the wine list at Ten 01 features 29 wines by the glass, 56 wines available in half bottles and selections that do justice to Oregon’s local talent while stretching far beyond, down to California, up to Washington, and overseas in both directions, as far as Western Australia and Austria. Some super elite wines from California and Washington are available in several vintages, yet more than 50 bottles are available for those looking to spend less than $40 a bottle.
We recently discussed the restaurant’s wine programs with sommelier and general manager Erica Landon.
What is the philosophy that underpins your wine list and service?
Trying to have something for everyone. I wanted to touch upon most of the regions in the world and then within those regions have both world-class, higher-end wines, as well as great quality wines at a much more approachable price. Also, service is executed professionally and properly, but in a very friendly and understandable way.
Your wine list states, “It is our goal to make wine as approachable as possible.” How do you accomplish this?
It is all in the approach. Introducing myself to every guest who is browsing the wine list, letting them know that I am there for questions or advice is very important, while doing my best not to encroach on their evening. When guests ask for wine pairing advice, first and foremost I listen to them and what they enjoy. If they do not like soft, delicate wines, they are not going to enjoy a Beaujolais, even if it is the best partner for the dish.
How do special events factor into your wine program?
In January we launched the Ten 01 “Wine Club.” This program offers members a selection of events to attend each month. I select a region or varietal to focus on and put together seminars, tastings and wine dinners. Members also receive 10 percent off the featured wines while dining at the restaurant. We have had such an enormous response to the classes that we have doubled the amount offered. Education is a large focus at Ten 01 both for the staff and guests.
How do you view the role of elite, status labels on a list as opposed to lesser-known, less expensive brands of the same type or varietal?
There is a place for both. I think you have to have a well-rounded list. Some people are looking for names that they know and trust, while others are searching for the more esoteric wines that will knock their socks off. I try to represent both in each category.
The hardest part about buying wine for a list is to bear in mind that it is not always about whether you like the wine, but rather if it is well-made and a fraction of guests will want to order it.
Many of today’s top-scoring wines have been criticized for being too rich and alcoholic to work well with food. How do you make those wines work with dinner?
There are people that prefer acid and elegance and those that love power and strength. It is my job to listen to what they like and recommend a wine that they will enjoy. The job of suggesting wine has much less to do with what I love and more to do with the guest’s palate. My father would rather have a Barbaresco with halibut than a white wine that he would not enjoy.
What advice would you give to other wine directors and sommeliers?
Listen to your guests. Ask questions about what they like before making a recommendation. So many of us forget that sometimes. We have spent so much time educating ourselves on what the proper pairings are and tasting the wines we are in love with, but it is not about us.