Each day, restaurant customers across the country panic at the thought of ordering wine for their table.The term “food-friendly” has conveyed great qualities for difficult-to-match foods—high acidity, mild tannins, bright fruit and low alcohol—but the overused term has sometimes become a backhanded compliment for wines that are mainly tart and one-dimensional. And while crisp acids and low tannins go great with a frisée salad, such a wine might taste like lemon water next to the caramelized ...

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