Some analysts credit chef Daniel Boulud with kicking off the current hot-dog revival, citing the prominence of sausages like the all-beef DBGB Dog on the menu of his DBGB Kitchen and Bar in New York. Others point to the strong influence of local market specialists like Doug Sohn, owner of the seminal Hot Doug’s in Chicago, as prime movers behind the trend.
It’s also possible that hot dogs are benefiting from strong tailwinds provided by the runaway success of better-burger specialists, who’ve breathed new life into another long-running sandwich standard.
No matter what the driving force, the result is a rediscovery of an enduring classic that’s moved the hot dog out of the ballpark and into the limelight.
Hot dogs are high end. In line with the overall trend toward premium ingredients on restaurant bills of fare, franks are receiving upscale culinary flourishes. At Japa Dog, a street cart in Vancouver, B.C., customers can choose Kurobuta Pork dogs — the Japanese name for heritage Berkshire pork — or Kobe Beef dogs. Two years ago, chain stalwart Wienerschnitzel took on burger rivals with the addition of a 100-percent-Angus-beef dog. Hot Doug’s and Biker Jim in Denver truly push the envelope with rattlesnake, elk or duck options, while Social Eatz in New York offers organic chicken dogs.
While the protein is often the focal point, at least as much attention is being paid to condiments. Another notable Chicago competitor, Franks ‘n’ Dawgs, promises five-star dining on a bun and delivers toppings like duck confit, black-pepper oyster sauce, buttermilk vinaigrette, pickled fennel and macerated grapes; their Brunch Dog is finished with a fried egg and maple mayo.
Jack’s Cosmic Dogs, a favorite in Charleston, S.C., is known for toothsome homemade sweet-potato mustard, and Let’s Be Frank in San Francisco features Devil Sauce made of organic California-grown peppers, ginger, garlic and hand-toasted spices.
Hot dogs are humble. Despite the surge in designer dogs, many consumers prefer more familiar favorites, and operators are ready to comply. Wienerschnitzel is running a summertime special that puts a chili dog on a pretzel bun, a real comfort combo. Last spring Sonic Drive-In introduced a line of regional favorites that includes a New York Dog with sauerkraut, a Chicago Dog with requisite pickle, peppers and celery salt, and a Chili Cheese Coney Dog.
Steak ’n Shake’s Signature Steak Franks also address regional taste preferences with toppings like guacamole and Carolina coleslaw. On a related note, Burbank, Calif.-based Jody Maroni’s boasts an all-beef hot dog in natural casing “that snaps,” a highly prized attribute for true frank-ophiles.
CJ’s All American Grill, an independent operation in Walnut Creek, Calif., grabbed national press attention with the introduction of Danger Dogs wrapped in bacon, a popular street food in Tijuana, Mexico, that jumped the border to land on vending carts around the United States and is now making an appearance on restaurant menus. And in line with another major menu research-and-development trend, hot dogs are being downsized: Mini dogs are offered on an appetizer platter with sliders at Shari’s Restaurants, and they’re paired with natural-cut French fries at Buffalo Wild Wings.
Hot dogs are hot. Spicy, that is. They’re serving as carriers for the widest possible range of incendiary flavor treatments. Dirty Frank’s in Columbus, Ohio, turns up the temperature with Seoul Dogs topped with Korean kimchi and a Sriracha drizzle, while the Hot Bollywood sizzles with spicy Indian mango chutney. Kogi BBQ, operator of hip food trucks in Southern California, creates more than signature Korean tacos; they also proffer unique hot dogs, like a spicy barbecue-pork-topped dog. Following up on its new hot-dog line, Sonic recently rolled out a promotional Baja Dog boasting jalapeños and pepper Jack cheese. And Birmingham, Ala., favorite Gus’s concocts a chili-slaw dog with a pleasant burn.
Looking ahead, the hot-dog boom will continue as niche proteins like rabbit, tofu and seafood dogs make their appearance. Trendy though they might be, they won’t seriously threaten the dominance of the newly revitalized classic hot dog.
Nancy Kruse, president of The Kruse Company, is a menu trends analyst based in Atlanta. Contact her at nancykruse@aol.com .
