Chefs and restaurateurs take burgers beyond beef

The Turkey Burger at Yeah! Burger in Atlanta. (Photo credit: Melissa Libby)

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Taking creative license with a classic American item, some restaurant operators are recasting the hamburger with proteins other than beef and signature toppings from around the globe.

One of the most fertile departure points for a signature burger is a grind of turkey, vegetables, lamb, tuna, or some other protein. While such alternative patties typically don’t rival beef burgers in sheer sales, operators said, when made well they appeal to a significant fan base – including health-minded eaters – and warrant a premium price.

At Bobby’s Burger Palace, a turkey burger made with a very lean grind of turkey breast is the alter ego of the signature beef burger in celebrity chef and restaurateur Bobby Flay’s gourmet burger concept. It has a devoted following.

“If we sell 1,000 burgers on average in a store, 200 to 300 of them are turkey burgers,” said Bob Mundell, director of operations for the five-unit chain, which is based in New York City.

Mundell said that Flay, known as a hands-on operator, spent as much R&D time on perfecting the turkey burger as he did the flagship beef burger. The patty is made from a very lean grind of light and dark turkey. He developed a special cooking procedure that ensures a moist result.

“We season the burger with salt and pepper, sear it on one side, flip it over and sear it for another 20 seconds or so,” Mundell said. “Then we add a little water, cover it and let it steam for another 20 seconds.” Steaming as well as griddling the burgers “helps lock in the juices and keep the burgers moist,” he noted.

Patrons can order the turkey patty in any of the ten regional American flavor profiles on the Bobby’s menu, which range from a simply dressed Palace Classic Burger with American cheese, lettuce, tomato and red onion, to more elaborate takes like the Napa Valley Burger, with fresh goat cheese, watercress and Meyer lemon honey mustard. Other varied selections include the L.A. Burger, with avocado relish, watercress, cheddar cheese and tomato, and the Santa Fe Burger, with queso sauce, pickled jalapenos and blue corn chips.

“Bobby felt that the turkey burger could stand up to any of the flavor profiles he offered,” said Mundell. Each is priced from $6.50 to $7.50.

Those in the mood for an alternative burger at Yeah! Burger, a fast-casual gourmet burger concept in Atlanta, have three options: A grass-fed, naturally raised Bison Burger ($7.99), a Turkey Burger ($5.99) made with naturally raised turkey and a Veggie Burger ($5.99) made with Sea Island red peas.

The Bison Burger is exceeded in sales only by Yeah! Burger’s flagship Georgia beef burger. “We’re seeing a lot of people choose the bison for health reasons,” said Erik Maier, co-owner of the concept with chef Shaun Doty. “It has less fat than chicken breast.”

Also going over well is the Turkey Burger, which has tarragon as an accent. “Simply adding some fresh tarragon to turkey makes it really complex in flavor,” said Doty, a prominent Atlanta chef.

The Veggie Burger is made with certified organic, heirloom red peas that are grown exclusively on Sea Island, Georgia, as well as zucchini, mushrooms and cumin. “They are very eco-friendly and a regionally appropriate product,” said Doty. “In my opinion, these are the best tasting dried peas around.”

At the fine-dining restaurant One Sixtyblue in Chicago, the presence of a gym across the street helped motivate executive chef Michael McDonald to craft a house-made Veggie Patty ($10) for the bar menu. “If someone has finished a workout and they’re not in the mood for an eight-ounce beef burger, I can say, ‘Sure, I have a veggie patty,’” said McDonald.

His current version is made with bulgur wheat and mozzarella cheese. But when it’s time for a new batch, McDonald is likely to dream up a new recipe.

“When it is time to make a new batch, I like starting from scratch again,” said McDonald. “I make it from my heart and when it is gone, I start over and make it better.”
 

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