Chef Todd Duplechan has devoted himself to notions of “new Texas cuisine” at the Austin, Texas, restaurant Lenoir, which he opened with his wife, Jessica Maher, in early 2012, six years after moving to the Lone Star State from New York. The couple met while working in adjoining kitchens run by luminary chef David Bouley — he at Danube, she at the namesake Bouley. Their idea for Lenoir evolved after years of adjusting to Austin and its idiosyncratic ...

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