What is in this article?:
- Dufresne, Keller, Ripert discuss careers, legacy
- Tasting menus, pivotal career moments
This is part of NRN's special coverage of the 2013 Food & Wine Classic held in Aspen, Colo., June 14-16.
Since 1988, Food & Wine magazine has named Best New Chefs, an award that has launched the careers of dozens upon dozens of chefs. Among them are Wylie Dufresne, the
Cowin: What are the mantras you live by?
Ripert: Because we are a seafood restaurant, it's always been "Fish is the star of the plate." Everything we do at the restaurant is designed to pay homage to fish.
Keller: Our goal is to strive for perfection, and as such it's all about the extra effort that you put in.
Dufresne: Our mantra is to always ask "Why?" All of us in the business do lots of repetitive things, like cook a chicken or an egg the same way. But why do we have to cook the things we cook the same way all the time? Is there a better way to do it? It pays to keep asking yourself that question.
Keller: That's a good point. It's about evolving and constantly moving forward. For years at the French Laundry we would poach lobster in butter on the stove. That left it to the skill of the chef and knowing when to pull it out of the butter. At Per Se, we decided to take the human risk element out of it and put the lobster in a bag and poach it in a circulator so it comes out perfect every time. But the health department has issues with us doing sous vide, so we went back to poaching it in butter until we realized that we could poach the lobster in a circulator without the bag. It's about finding a better way.
Ripert: The world is always changing. It's shrinking so we can fly to Asia easily and we can get products from all around the world that will influence our cooking. Improvements in technology are helping the chef but they're also helping purveyors. New technology is helping fishermen deliver fresh fish better than ever. If you don't evolve, it's boring. Remember, 25 years ago nobody in this country was eating sushi.
Dufresne: This is the information age, so we have instant access to all sorts of information that can change and help us improve what we do. It's easy for us to find out what chefs are doing in Asia, Scandinavia and everywhere. It didn't used to be that way.
Cowin: Has the interest in French food waned?
Ripert: Good food is good food, and success is about harmony on the plate. Though a lot of us were trained to use French technique, we don't necessarily cook French food. We use the ingredients around us. My inspiration comes from New York and its products.
Keller: I don't think we've lost our appreciation for French food, but now we have access to so many other great cuisines, there's a lot to pick from.