With the recent proliferation of restaurants featuring the food styles of Italy’s Puglia region, it’s fascinating to trace many of them to one small seaport town, Mola di Bari, a few kilometers from Bari.There are dozens of such restaurants in and around New York City because twice as many Molese natives live in the tri-state area as reside at home in the heel of the Italian boot. Mola di Bari’s population is 27,000. Its sons, daughters and their children now number 50,000 in Greater New ...

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