While growing up Edyth James worked preparing and serving meals at the Pine Grove, a hotel owned and operated by her family and nestled in the Blue Mountains of her native Jamaica. During that time she learned to respect the foods and flavors of the Caribbean island, especially the fruits and vegetables from her family’s garden.
James, 58, is now an accomplished restaurateur. Almost 20 years ago she founded Saffron’s Caribbean Cuisine, a venerated, 300-seat eatery in St. Petersburg, Fla., which she recently closed following the death of her co-owner and husband, Sonny Henry. James’ sister, Jackie Hill, another co-owner, maintains the Saffron’s name under a catering business.
In June, James and new partner John Warren opened Savannah’s Café, a 170-seat, 4,200-square-foot restaurant celebrating the amalgamation of flavors emanating from the Deep South. The St. Petersburg restaurant also features mint juleps from around the world. Check averages are $25 to $30 per person at dinner.
Savannah’s Cafe has been generating favorable reviews from much of the local press for its upscale versions of Lowcountry fare and is feeding about 150 people daily, including lunch and dinner.
Why did you close Saffron’s?
The best thing about Saffron’s was the huge family we created of guests and staff. It was like my extended living room, but I just didn’t want to do it without my husband.
Why make the switch to a new type of food when you were so successful with Caribbean fare?
When I first opened Saffron’s in 1991, I didn’t know if such an ethnic restaurant could survive—if the area was ready for it. But I found that more people were willing to try new things and becoming increasingly accustomed to spicy meals. We grew Saffron’s from 45 to 300 seats.
The timing was right, and my partner and I feel the same way about Savannah’s. Nobody here was propelling Southern food to the gourmet level. Grits are not for breakfast anymore. What we’ve done is taken grits out of the doldrums and put it on top of the list.
What is the toughest thing about operating an independent restaurant right now? Mom-and-pops are being weeded out by the fierce chain competition.
FAST FACTS EXPERIENCE: co-owner of now-closed Saffron’s Caribbean Cuisine in St. Petersburg for nearly 20 yearsPERSONAL: two children; six grandchildrenHOBBIES: swimming, gardeningFAVORITE AUTHORS: Alice Walker, Ernest HemingwayFAVORITE SAYINGS: “It is not how much you earn; it is how much you save.” “Never give up.”
How do you combat it?
We need to make every guest feel that they are important and not just a dollar sign coming in the door. Independent restaurants have to use the fact that they are unique, they have flexibility and that decisions can be made quickly.We also have to stress food quality and service. We will be swallowed up by all of the chains if we don’t band together.
What are your other challenges?
Of course the rise in commodity prices, but we try to shop wisely. We are really doing well right now, but the bigger concern I think is the fall in the spending power of consumers in general.
What goals do you have for the restaurant?
Well, we’d like to see the average check at $50, but our portions are generous. It is a Southern thing to sell a bountiful amount of food. If we do this right in another two years or so we could have another Savannah’s somewhere else.
What’s your favorite thing about the restaurant business? Everybody becomes your friend. There is nothing more rewarding at the end of the day than to close the door, have a glass of wine, put up your feet and say, “Everybody had a great time.”