Many fine-dining wine lists are similar: drenched in Bordeaux and Napa, filled with Super Tuscan and Rioja and sprinkled with a handful of New World wines. But lately, some wine directors, rejecting massive flavor profiles and responding to customers’ desire for novelty, have started to add wines from more neglected European regions. Such wines can offer a number of advantages. For one, they might make a better match with contemporary cuisine. In Chicago, for example, Arthur Hon, ...
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