Determined not to let sky-high Champagne prices and consumer frugality take the air out of their bubbly business, some restaurant operators are guiding their guests to good, reasonably priced sparkling wines from less-heralded wine regions. “Today you can walk into a store or into a restaurant and find a beer, a wine or a sparkling aperitif from any corner of the world,” said Todd J. Smith, wine director of Dosa, a new restaurant in San Francisco that showcases the exotic cuisine of ...

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