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Bacon is one of the most beloved savory items around, and chefs are finding ways to extend its popularity. Increasingly common, they are substituting lamb for pork — that is, curing and smoking lamb bellies to add a taste of spring to dishes.

Oysters topped with lamb bacon from Alden & Harlow in Cambridge, Mass.

The Easter menu at Tocqueville restaurant in New York City boasts a pan-roasted lamb loin with braised shoulder and lamb bacon. Michael Scelfo, chef of Alden & Harlow in Cambridge, Mass., shaves lamb bacon, along with pickled mushrooms and cucumber labneh, over oysters. And at Two restaurant in Chicago, lamb bacon, arugula, and Wisconsin Parmesan, flavor a parsnip risotto.