The kitchens at A Voce, an Italian restaurant with two locations in New York City, are not well suited to tasting menus, but when owner Marlon Abela was in town from London and said he wanted fish for lunch, executive chef Missy Robins knew he didn’t want merely a grilled piece of halibut. She and chef de cuisine Hillary Sterling ended up doing a 10-course fish tasting menu on the fly. They enjoyed doing it so much that they wanted to figure out how to pull off such menus on a ...

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