de cuisine Chris Kurth evokes the coming fall with this end-of summer dish by imparting a piney flavor to sweetbreads.
He makes a granola out of puffed black and white rice and rough-chopped toasted macadamia and pistachio nuts, and puts those ingredients in a pan with oil, salt, pepper, honey and a French curry spice blend called vadouvan. He cooks that mixture at a low temperature in the oven until the honey caramelizes and dries. The granola should feel tacky when it comes out of the oven, but it hardens as it cools.
Kuth roasts the sweetbreads, and about five minutes before they’re done he wraps them in blue spruce boughs. He garnishes them with the granola, peach jam and citrus-braised endive.
The dish was part of a recent five-course tasting menu that cost $85. Sold separately, it would have cost about $27.