702 N. Wells St. 312-988-7864 www.sumirobatabar.com Named for the purest form of Japanese charcoal, Sumi pays tribute to nature inside and out, including in its seasonal zen garden. Chef/partner Gene Kato, formerly of Japonais, has left fusion behind to focus on presenting simply grilled small portions of foods like wagyu ribeye with wasabi ponzu, bone-in lamb chop with spicy miso, chicken gizzards and sashimi.  

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