Balancing the broadly differing wants and needs of restaurant guests takes a lot of baby coddling. Or maybe not. This past week, a Northern California restaurant highlighted the Hobson’s choice restaurant operators often face when it comes to policies on children within their four walls. Shake’s Old Fisherman’s Grotto on the wharf in Monterey, Calif., dove headlong into the controversy, drawing jeers from some parents and cheers from other patrons with signs that prohibit ...

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