It started with ketchup, a seemingly all-American invention that is actually Asian in origin. Chinese ketsiap was a fermented fish sauce adapted by the British, while Malaysian kechap was a soy sauce adopted by the Dutch. Both have long since been eclipsed in popularity by the familiar and ubiquitous ketchup, credited to 18th-century New Englanders cooking with tomatoes native to this country. The condiment has leapt boundaries to become a truly international staple. It has also, perhaps, ...

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