For better or worse, a menu can be said to be very highly focused when one of its crafters speaks, without the slightest hint of irony, of an elusive search for “nonfried options” to add to its list of offerings. Such focus, of course, has been a defining characteristic of KFC since the beginning, even after the chain famously shortened its name and started answering to its initials instead.“We’ve been working on nonfried options for the past 15 or 16 years or so, everything from Colonel’s ...

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