Spanish cookery will likely never threaten the primacy of the big three ethnic cuisines: Chinese, Italian and Mexican. There’s been no major wave of supporting immigration, and Spanish-Americans are simply not as numerous as other hyphenates like Mexican-Americans. What’s more, a political system that was closed for decades prevented a free-flowing culinary exchange. Consequently, Spanish cuisine has languished in the shadow of the Italian-food boom. The good news, however, is ...

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