From mozzarella to Morbier, cheese is shifting away from its traditional role as a before- or after-dinner nibble to steal the spotlight at a growing number of restaurants. Cheese-focused restaurants are popping across the country, such as Sidekick in San Francisco, Obikà Mozzarella Bar in Los Angeles and the upcoming Bistro Lamazou in New York. In San Francisco this week, cheese mongers and restaurateurs Peggy Smith and Sue Conley of the Cowgirl Creamery shop in the Ferry Building ...

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