Davio’s, a northern Italian steakhouse in Philadelphia, wanted to prove to the world that the City of Brotherly Love has better cheesecake than New York. So its owners threw down the gauntlet in front of ’Cesca, an Italian restaurant on New York City’s Upper West Side. ’Cesca picked up that gauntlet and a cheesecake war was declared. It was a reasonably friendly war. Both restaurants exchanged recipes and worked with each other to replicate the desserts in each ...

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