Once every three months at Chicago’s West Town Tavern, chef-owner Susan Goss used to make fried chicken for family meal. Everyone loved it, but it was a hassle. “I’m a fried-chicken snob,” Goss says, and she didn’t want to veer from the heavy-lidded iron skillet of her childhood, which she says seems to act “almost like a pressure cooker,” and also a steamer, making for moist, crispy chicken.“It took all day to prepare and 45 minutes to cook,” she says, “so I didn’t know ...

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