Customers sometimes call Jeremy Sewall into the dining room and ask him to explain himself. The chef-owner of Island Creek Oyster Bar in Boston offers daily fish specials, and when they include bluefin tuna, his ethics are called into question. The big meaty fish, whose fatty, marbled belly, called toro, is the crown jewel of many high-end sushi and sashimi meals, once swarmed the North Atlantic in massive schools, but since the 1970s the population has been depleted dramatically. Bluefin ...
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